"Rattlesnake", several runners ahead of me said at mile 6 as they halted in their tracks. A group of about 10 runners halted for about a minute as a rattlesnake rattled at us and slithered off into the brush beside the dusty trail head up towards Upper Sheep A/S. I saw a part of the snake in the brush when I finally ran by it, hoping that it would not lunge towards me. I said to another runner, "we can cross rattlesnake off our checklist now." He said, "Is this bingo or something?" in agreement, and laughed.
The day had already started out on an interesting note, promising additional adventures for the day. At 9am Friday, race instructions were given at Scott Park in Dayton to each of the approximately 285-300 runners who were to start the race. I said goodbye to my wife and kids and was shuttled off to the start on Tongue River Rd. I found a cool spot on a bridge over the river there and settled in for the 1 hour wait.
At about 10:50 am, the national anthem was sung. At almost 11 am, I came up to the starting line, situated towards the back so I would not start out too fast. I was happy to see my wife and kids there for the send-off.
At 11am, I took off with the rest of the runners with temps starting around 75 under sunny skies. I gradually passed up quite a few runners at my easy pace passing the tongue river trailhead and lower sheep. I carried 3 water bottles--1 handheld and 2 in my front pack. I was determined not to get dehydrated.
This year, from lower sheep to upper sheep from miles 3.5 to 8.5, the ascent seemed much easier, probably from a combination of being in better shape and from being further back in the pack. I didn't have to stop at all going up, but tripped once of twice when I passed runners up. Upon reaching Upper Sheep A/S at mile 8.5, I ate a little and headed up towards DryFork A/S. My elapsed time arriving at DryFork A/S (mile 13.4) was 3:12 and I was in 121st place. I felt like I performed well on that section, and was 28 minutes ahead of my time from last year. I only needed 5 minutes at this aid station and I was off towards Footbridge as the temps had climbed to the 80s. From DryFork to Footbridge, the terrain is lots of ups and downs with elevation largely between 6,000 and 7,500 ft, not including the drop to Footbridge which is bottoms out between 4,000 and 5,000 ft. I was able to run the flats and downhills and powerhike the uphills. I had no difficulty hydrating or eating and was feeling confident as I descended into Footbridge at mile 30 with an elapsed time of 7:00, 125th place which was right on track, a full 3 hours ahead of the cut-off and 59 minutes ahead of last years split time. Here I ate bananas, potatoes, crackers and such. I packed a jacket for the cold night weather as well as a hat and gloves and headlamp.
From Footbridge I started with a mix of running and power-hiking to cathedral rock.
Leaving cathedral rock (mile 33.5), it was still light out and I had no idea what the next few hours would bring.
At mile 34, I learned what a 20% chance of thunderstorms can mean in the Bighorn Mountains. It means lightning, thunder, and rain. Thankfully I had packed a light rain jacket which I hastily put on as drops of rain came down. After hiking in the rain for 5 minutes, I realized I left my waist pack with my phone and other belongings back there, but checked again and realized I was wearing it but I was wearing it behind rather than in front. Whew--close call. I again resumed running and power hiking up to Spring Marsh mile 40, feeling good. The darkness was coming and I put on my headlamp. From Spring Marsh I started up but I started to feel the elevation above 7,000 ft for the first time on this HC climb. From Spring March to Elk Camp I for the first time experienced dry heaving around mile 42. I did multisystem checks to make sure this was just sporadic and not a systemic problem and everything check out, so I just slowed down the pace a bit and proceeded twards Elk Camp (mile 43.5). At Elk Camp I ate some noodles with broth and crackers and started to climb up above 9200 ft elevation. On this section I had to stop multiple times to sit down and catch my breath. Other runners would pass me up and ask if I was ok. I would say, "Yes, I am ok, I just need to stop to catch my breath." To one person I also said, "I live at the beach", and the runner chuckled. I was expecting this though so I kept up the courage. I was happy to arrive at Jaws (mile 48) at 13:49 elapsed time, a full 1:46 faster than last years split time and 4:11 ahead of the cutoff. I spent 27 minutes at the aid station and used the restroom. I ate soup, quesadillas, and crackers. There were several runners laying flat on cots, apparently exhausted. When I arrived at Jaws I was in 150/251 place, and upon leaving I was in 127/207 place, telling the toll that the HC climb had taken upon the runners.
It was 1:16 am when I left Jaws and started to long descent down to Footbridge. The mud was there but was not as bad as last year. I was able to run most of the downhills, didn't have to stop at all and never felt the utter exhaustion like I had felt last year. I passed a few runners from Jaws to Footbridge mile 66 and arrived there at 6:29 am, 19:29 elasped time and 4:31 ahead of the cutoff.
I ate some food, put on sunscreen, took off my jacket, changed my hat and headed up "The Wall". This is a steep, steep climb up from Footbridge. I was able to powerhike fairly well and only had to stop a few times near the top. My GPS watch was malfunctioning though, giving me inaccurate data and at one point I thought I had bypassed Bear Camp Aid Station Mile 70, because my GPS said I had gone 5 miles since Footbridge. I actually backtracked 1/4 mile until I met up with 2 other runners. I asked them if they had come across Bear Camp yet, and they said, "no it should be just up ahead." I realized that it was getting late in the run and mental fatigue and confusion can settle in quickly. From Bear Camp to DryFork, it was getting really hot and the frequent ups and downs at high elevation made me powerhike more than run, but I maintained hydration. The final ascent to DryFork is grueling and I stopped a couple of times to catch my breath as the temps were reaching the upper 80s. I reached DryFork A/S at 26:37 elapsed time and needed only 13 minutes to refuel and put on suscreen. I was 3:10 ahead of the cutoff, and it was mosly downhill from here.
I left Dryfork (mile 82) cheerful in the bright sunny day that promised a high temperature of near 100 in Dayton at the finish. I power hiked more than ran the rest of the way all the way to the finish. Along this section, I would refill my bottles with GuBrew, Heed or water and soon after the liquids would feel warm or hot. It was almost impossible to keep the bottles cool. I realized my body could get overheated easily as well, so in order to prevent heat exhaustion or worse, I would keep my effort slow and cruise to the finish. The one climb I had not anticipated was the one coming back from Upper Sheep A/S. It is very steep and I had to stop like 10 times to catch my breath.
On the back side there was about 5 miles of downhill, but my toes and foot were beat up from the repeated banging against the rocky trails which festered toe blisters and subungual blood blisters. The bottoms of my feet were very sore as well. So I ran as much as I could and then hiked some as well.
At Lower Sheep A/S (mile 92.5) many runners were taking lots of time resting there and hydrating. I refilled a bottle which became hot liquids soon after, and kept on power hiking. Parts of the trails from here to Tongue River Road mile 96ish felt like the upper 90s, near 100 F. I power hiked the last 4 miles at a fast 16 min/mile pace passing many limping runners up. Along the road the last 4 miles, there were many encouraging spectators, a volunteer driving down the road handing out cups of ice to us, and even an aid station with fruit and cold treats.
As I headed towards the finish, I was cheered on by my wife and at the finish, a volunteer put a wet towel around my neck and gave me a finisher blanket.
I reached the finish (mile 101.5) with a time of 31:25, a full 2:35 ahead of the cutoff. This was good enough for 121st place--the exact place I was in when I reached DryFork at mile 13.4! Out of approximately 285-300 starters, I was more than happy for my 121st place overall, and only about 170 runners finished. Although altitude and heat training could be given me a faster time, it was nice to know that with my fitness, I could still finish way before the cutoff using just the training I enjoy most--out in nature, close to home.
The awards breakfast is Sunday morning and featured pancakes and orange juice before the awards ceremony. At the awards ceremony, each 100 mile finisher is announced by their city/state/name/finisher time in order from fastest to slowest. I received my buckle and finisher jacket. In addition, the top male and females in each age group, etc. are announced. The Rusty Spur awards are also given out for sub-24 hour finishers.
Summary of what went well:
1. Even effort pacing: first half 14.5 hours, second half 17 hours
2. Optimal hydration and nutrition
3. Problem solving on the fly--managing thunderstorms, GI distress, heat, GPS failure
4. Altra Lone Peak 2.5 shoes
5. Fitness, from multiple long runs (including Badger 100 and Zion 100) and hill training this past year
6. Practicing running in mud on OCT and Cape Lookout SP
7. Knowing the trail from last year helped out quite a bit
8. The volunteers and race setup were top notch
9. The drop bags were well organized and were at important points along the way.
Summary of how I could run faster next time:
1. Continued hill and technical running over time
2. Altitude training
3. Heat training
4. Have a pacer
So what's next?
This year I decided to run four 100 milers, Badger 100, Zion 100, and Bighorn 100 are in the books; only Lost Soul 100 remains for this year.
